Labrador retrievers are the quintessential dog, loved by both families and hunters alike. Indeed, for more than 24 years the Labrador retriever has been the most popular breed in the United States, per the American Kennel Club. This trend is seen in the UK as well, as the UK Kennel Club reports the lab has the highest registration numbers of all gun dogs. Incredibly versatile, the Labrador retriever can be used in the field, but also in settings such as Seeing Eye and therapy dogs, as well. Regardless of the universal love of labs, most of the world (particularly hunters) are divided. Some prefer the British lab, while others decidedly love the American lab. The difference between these two types of retrievers will be described here.
The British (or English) Lab has a stockier build than its lanky, American counterpart. A British Lab stands 21.5 – 22.5’’ tall, while the American Lab stands taller at 21.5 – 24.5’’ at the shoulder. The British Lab has a wider build with a fuller chest, thicker neck, shorter legs, and a more clearly defined forehead stop. The American version, on the other hand, has a narrower head, longer legs, longer muzzle, and a more agile build. Whereas the British Lab is built like a rugby player, the American Lab looks more like a track athlete.
An easily distinguished feature of the American Lab is the tail, which is frequently thinner and tends to curve upwards. The British Lab, on the other hand, has a tail that is thick and straight. British Labs have denser coats, but commonly weigh less than American Labs. Male British Labs range 70 – 74 lbs (females top out around 55 lbs) while American Labs often weigh 10 – 20 lbs more.
Of course, there are plenty of similarities between the two types of Labs. For instance, both have water-resistant double coats. There are three recognized colors of Labs: black, yellow, and chocolate. For both the British and American Lab, the black coat is most common. Interestingly, there are fewer chocolate British Labs than American ones.
From a temperament perspective, there are a number of differences between the two types of dogs. British Labs have a tendency to be calmer, quieter, and less active than their American counterparts. However, American Labs tend to have more energy and a greater hunting drive.
Despite these differences, both types of Labs have the same origin, which is the Newfoundland St. John’s water dog. This breed was used originally used for helping pull fishing nets back to shore in the 1800’s. While the UK and US recognized the breed at different times (1903 and 1917, respectively), neither governing body recognizes a difference between the two Lab types or lineages.
How did the differences between the two types of Labs arise? The difference stems from geographical differences in training and hunting. For instance, British field hunting history involved large events involving hundreds of birds over the course of many days. For these large scale shoots dogs were expected to be quiet, controlled, and excel at finding game.
In America, the Lab’s job description is slightly different. Here, more versatility is required due to differences in region, climate, and game species. The European-style shoots led to hunt tests and field trials in America, which required a decidedly more athletic dog with a stronger drive. As a result, the physical characteristics of the Labs bred in America changed in order to fit these needs.
At the end of the day, there are few differences between what the two types of dogs can accomplish when well trained. During late season hunts, the enhanced drive of the American Lab can be advantageous, but overall the two dogs are more similar than most people realize. Some people believe that British Labs are easier to train due to their calmer demeanor, but that point is often hotly debated because a softer dog might not take discipline as well. Overall, both types of Labrador retriever makes a great family dog.
When purchasing a Lab, British or American, health should be the most important focus. Breeders should stress eye, hip, and elbow health. Hunters should also do their research and find the breeder whose dogs most closely suit their needs. Some breeders produce dogs for the show ring, while others for the field. This difference can be monumental when a hunter is trying to develop a show ring dog – one that tends to be bulkier and less athletic – for hunting waterfowl.
Visit a Northern Illinois Dog Park or Come to Us for Dog Training In Northern Illinois
McHenry County Illinois Dog Training – McHenry County Dog Park List
Hound Town Dog Park – 851 IL-176, Crystal Lake, IL, US, 60014 – For more information call (815) 459-0680.
Bull Valley Dog Park – 11115 Country Club Rd, Woodstock, IL, US, 60098 – For more information call 815-459-4833.
Northern Illinois Dog Training
Lake in the Hills Dog Park – 9027 Haligus Rd, Lake in the Hills, IL, US, 60156 – For more information call (847) 960-7460. Veteran Acres Park – 330 N Main St, Crystal Lake, IL, US, 60014 – For more information call (815) 477-5400. (Bring your pet for a stroll through this lovely public park. Dogs are welcome as long as they remain on-leash.)
McBark Dog Park – 2500 N Richmond Rd, Mchenry, IL, US, 60051
Lake County Illinois Dog Training – Lake County Dog Park List
Lakewood Dog Park – 27511 N Fairfield Rd, Wauconda, IL, US, 60084 – For more information call Or call (847) 367-6640 for more information.
Duck Farm Dog Park – 1439 E Grand Ave, Lake Villa, IL, US, 60046 – For more information call Or call (847) 367-6640 for more information.
Happy Tails – 835 Commerce Ct, Buffalo Grove, IL, US, 60089 – For more information call Or call (847) 459-2311 for more information.
DuPage County Illinois Dog Training – DuPage County Dog Park List
Bark Park – 849 W Lies Rd, Carol Stream, IL, US, 60188 – For more information call (630) 784-6100.
Hawk Hollow Preserve – Bittersweet Dr and Stearns Rd, Bartlett, IL, US, 60103 – For more information call (630) 933-7248.
DeKalb County Illinois Dog Training – DeKalb County Dog Park List
Katz Dog Park – 201 W Dresser Rd, Dekalb, IL, US, 60115 – For more information call (815) 739-4500.
Southern Wisconsin Dog Training – Southern Wisconsin Dog Park List
I realize this is not a complete list, but this will give you a couple ideas where to take Buster, the next time out.
Please note that we do not encourage the use of dog parks. But if you must visit one, please keep an eye on your dog and even closer eye on the other dogs in the area.
Keep Bull Valley Retrievers in mind for all your Northern Illinois Dog Training needs. If its your household companion or next hunting partner, we can help him be the best he can be.
One of the most common questions that hunters have is when to transition their puppy from yard work to marks in the field. The general rule of thumb is to make this switch after performing plenty of conditioning retrieves and when the dog is reliably delivering bumpers to hand.
A great first drill that can be performed is the check-down drill. Here, hunters should find a flat field that is approximately 80 yards, and have a gunner shoot a blank pistol or give a hey hey before tossing a bumper with a short, flat throw to the left. Before each subsequent throw, the gunner should move in to the right, continually getting closer.
This drill has a number of benefits. First, it teaches the dog to hunt the proper side of the gun. Second, the check-down drill teaches the dog to hunt the area properly for the downed bird.
To begin this drill, first put your dog in a sitting position. Signal the gunner, who will shoot a blank (or give a hey hey) and toss a bumper. Stick your hand down, then wait 3 counts before sending your dog. Timing here is important. Hunters fall into the habit of immediately sending their dog, which creates bad habits in the field, such as poor steadying.
When your dog returns with the bumper, have your dog continue to hold it in his or her mouth in order to stay focused on the task at hand. Have the gunner repeat the throw, but this time from a closer distance and in the opposite direction. Once the bumper hits the ground, again wait before sending your dog. Be sure to praise your animal for patience.
As your dog gets the hang of this drill, keep an eye on his or her marking behavior. If your dog overruns the mark, continue with the gunner starting farther away and moving in. However, if your dog hunts too sharply, do the opposite and have the gunner move out with each throw. This check-down drill can be performed every day.
Joe Scarpy – Trainer / Bull Valley Retrievers
HuntEmUp.com – The Worldwide Sporting Dog Superstore
In the world of shed-antler hunting, your chances of finding antlers significantly increase with the amount of ground that can be covered. If you combine your dog’s ability to tirelessly cover miles of ground with his or her superior nose, you have the world’s best tool for shed hunting.
The allure of hunting sheds with your dog is simple. Nearly any breed of dog can be trained to complete this task, even animals from non-retrieving backgrounds. Shed hunting with your dog provides exercise, socialization, bonding, and greatly improves your chances of finding a valuable shed. Listed here are tips for training your shed dog.
Step 1: Indoor Retrieves
As with any type of dog training, you should start with simple drills. Find a small shed without sharp edges or an antler dummy and practice with your dog in a restricted area, such as a hallway or small room. Toss the antler or dummy, encourage your dog to pick it up and bring it back to you, and provide copious amounts of praise when your pet follows directions.
Step 2: Outdoor Retrieves
Once your dog has mastered indoor retrieves, move to the outdoors where more distractions are present and your dog can work from a farther distance. After tossing the antler, use the command, “find the bone.” It is important to have a distinct command from your dog’s normal retrieving duties. You can keep a check cord on your dog to help keep your pet on task if he or she struggles. Whenever your dog brings the antler, provide a high-value reward.
Step 3: Scent Work
After your dog has displayed proficiency with outdoor retrieves, teach him or her how to hunt for the shed. Rack wax improves your dog’s ability to learn the scent of the shed antlers that you will hide in your yard. The key here is to make initial hunts easy for your pet. Hide the rack wax-treated sheds in easy-to-find locations before telling your dog to “find the bone.” If necessary, guide your pet. Over time, make the sheds more difficult to find.
Step 4: Increase the Difficulty Finally, when your dog has mastered the hunting portion of your training it is time to increase the difficulty further by removing all traces of human scent from the antler. Use rack wash and rubber gloves when handling your training sheds to make sure your dog is hunting the sheds, not your scent.
The toughest aspect of dog ownership is that all young dogs grow old. However, old age does not mean that your dog’s hunting days are over. As long as he or she is willing, there is no reason to keep your senior dog from the field. However, care should be taken to physically prepare your dog, with a few modifications from years past.
Exercise
A dog that remains active will live the longest and healthiest life. Even after your dog reaches his or her golden years, continue to exercise your pet in whatever capacity he or she can handle. It is important to be vigilant about the level of exercise that is comfortable for your dog, and not to push your pet beyond this point. Your dog’s ability level may be drastically different from even a year ago. Allow your dog to call the shots in terms of exercise, and call it a day at the first signs of exhaustion.
Weight
Keeping your senior dog at a healthy weight is crucial. Older dogs are more susceptible to illness and injury, both of which are more likely to occur if your dog is carrying a few extra pounds. As a dog ages, his or her metabolism slows down, so it is important to adjust portion sizes accordingly. Examine your dog’s body condition and look for a noticeable waist and tucked up belly.
Arthritis
Nearly every senior sport dog will develop arthritis to some degree. If your dog is struggling to get around, visit a veterinarian and talk about options for managing your dog’s pain. There are many arthritis drugs on the market that can significantly improve your dog’s quality of life without busting your budget.
Hunting
When your dog is ready, take him or her for a hunt. Treat your dog the same way that you did as a puppy, and limit the time spent in the field. Be cognizant of your dog’s needs and restrictions. Many senior dogs may only be able to spend an hour or two hunting per trip. Make sure you stick to your plan and put your dog up when he or she shows signs of growing tired. Recovery is most important, and most senior dogs will require 2 – 3 days before they can handle another outing.
Even though your dog might not be as quick or agile as in years past, there is no doubt your dog still has an intense love of hunting and spending time with you. Don’t shy from taking your dog out on hunts, but be realistic about his or her abilities. Ultimately, the time spent together can never be replaced, so as long as your dog is willing, do not miss the opportunity to make the most of your dog’s golden years.
Does a perfect bird dog exist? In short, no. However, there are a number of common problems that hunters face with their bird dogs that can be remedied in order to create a better hunting partner for your needs. Listed here are common problems encountered through each stage of a bird dog’s development.
Bumping Birds
This problem is most likely to occur in pointing dogs, and is indeed their number one offense. Pointers are often guilty of crowding the bird, dancing while on point, overrunning his or her nose and running directly into the bird, or only pointing for a short period of time before flushing the bird. Hunters have many preferences for their pointers, such as remaining steady until given the signal to flush; remaining steady until the bird is airborne; remaining steady until the bird is shot; or remaining steady until a fetch command is given. Regardless of the hunter’s preference, a pointer that is bumping birds by breaking the point or forgoing the point altogether is limiting the hunter’s chance to shoot.
Fixing this problem requires patience and a little bit of help. Recruit a hunting buddy to hold a check cord or e-collar while you flush and shoot a bird. If your dog breaks the point, the second handler will correct your dog. Other solutions include overlaying the whoa command with the correction, using pop traps, or keeping distance between your dog and the bird.
Substandard Retrieves
A second common offense is incomplete retrievals. This problem can include not picking up the bird, not returning with the bird immediately, or dropping short. Fortunately for hunters, this problem is easily addressed with drills. One of the best ways to prevent this problem from occurring is the “trained retrieve” or “force fetch.” However, care must be taken that this technique is performed early and properly. If the dog has already been through retrieval training but has begun to get sloppy, revisiting the trained retrieve process can remedy the problem. There are a number of other drills that address specific retrieval issues. For instance, excitement drills remind the dog that retrieving is rewarding, while delayed retrieves give the dog a sense of urgency. Rewarded delivery and keeping repetitive drills fun for the dog also go a long way in solving common retrieval problems.
Difficult Mouth
Although having a “difficult” mouth – i.e., hard mouth, refusing to give up the bird, chomping, playing tug of war, etc. falls under substandard retrieves, it should be discussed as its own unique challenge. There are many ways to fix this problem, such as with classic techniques involving bristled brushes or dumbbells with nails. Additional methods for overcoming these problems include allowing the dog to occasionally keep possession of the bird, not allowing the dog to stop moving and thereby preventing chewing, providing light corrections with the e-collar, or positively reinforcing the dog for good behavior.
Gun Shyness
Few dogs are truly naturally gun shy, However, it is not uncommon for dogs to develop a sensitivity to the sound of gunfire due to improper introduction to the sound of a gun, or due to a traumatic experience with loud noises such as thunderstorms or fireworks. In many instances, gun sensitivity can be overcome with careful training. This process involves a controlled increased gun volume in combination with decreasing distance from the sound, as well as positive associations and distractions.
Considerations
When addressing common bird dog problems, there are a few considerations that can be made which will make life easier for both hunter and dog. For instance, what are the resources you can use in overcoming your dog’s problems? Are there professional dog trainers, experienced hunters, or hunting breeders in you area that you can turn to for help?
If money is an issue, consider the cost of trainers or training clinics. What is the cost of pen-raised birds, if this is something to which you have access. Do you own the proper equipment for training? If not, do you know someone who could lend you the necessary items? Are there areas in which you can shoot pen-raised birds, and do you have the proper permits?
Another consideration is time. If you do not have unlimited time to fix your dog’s problems before the next bird season, hiring professional help might be most cost-effective. Certain problems are best left to the professionals, such as severe gun shyness, lack of steadiness, training regression, and bird mutilation.
Ultimately, working with a professional trainer will not only save you time and money, but will also help you learn more about training. However, it is important to find the trainer that best fits your needs, as every training method is different.
Of course, the best way to solve these common bird dog problems is to avoid them in the first place. Exposing dogs to live birds from an early age is important, as well as proper introduction to gunfire. Building a strong retrieving foundation is crucial. A close bond between hunter and gun dog helps develop a good work ethic and better cooperation, as well.
injury, both of which are more likely to occur if your dog is carrying a few extra pounds. As a dog ages, his or her metabolism slows down, so it is important to adjust portion sizes accordingly. Examine your dog’s body condition and look for a noticeable waist and tucked up belly. 
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